This lovely unoaked cabernet franc fills the Beaujolais niche in Finger Lakes wines. With intense forward fruit and plenty of crisp acidity, it paired with and worked perfectly to poach pesto-stuffed squid. I like it equally much with these quick pan-roasted chicken breasts.

Directions

Preheat oven to 450º F.

In a heavy oven-proof skillet, heat the oil over medium high heat until it shimmers, sprinkle chicken breasts with salt and pepper then brown them skin side down for 5 minutes, turn them over for 5 minutes, then place skillet in the oven. Roast the breasts for a further 15 minutes, or until they reach 155º.

Place the chicken on a platter and let it rest covered loosely with foil while you make the sauce. Place the same skillet over medium heat and cook the shallots briefly, stirring, then add the cherry tomatoes with a little salt. Stir vegetables for several minutes, until the tomatoes release their juices, then add the stock and wine. Bring the pan contents to a slow boil for several minutes to thicken. Taste for, and correct, seasoning.

Add breasts to the skillet, turn them several times in the sauce. Serve the chicken with T23/cherry tomato sauce and with oven-baked sweet potato fries and a simple salad with lemon dressing, and Lamoreaux Landing's 2003 T23 Cabernet Franc.

Grady Wells is a writer and radio producer living in Ithaca, N.Y.

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