Summer 2005 Newsletter Articles

Spring in the vineyards is always very special, a time for fresh, new growth and buds swelling with the promise of a vintage crop to come. All the work done in the vineyard is toward the goal of a successful harvest. Grapevines all form flower buds and bear fruit on the previous year’s growth. Every vine must be pruned during the winter to contain the growth and limit the size of the vine. This will ensure the optimum balance of fruit and new growth for the coming harvest.

How much growth to trim and how many buds to leave on each vine is an important decision made in late winter. First we look to see how many buds are alive on the vine. We then trim according to a formula to leave the appropriate number of live buds to grow and produce this season’s crop. In many cases we choose to limit the cropping potential of a variety in order to assure full ripeness of a smaller crop. This can be an important step toward the making of exceptional wines.

After the vines have been trimmed, the canes must be tied to the trellis. After all these chores have been completed, it’s time to start planting. Planting often seems like a race against time--we can’t start until the ground thaws and the danger of frost is past, but we can’t wait until the buds have swollen and growth has started. In addition, if the ground is too wet, we will not be able to get in the vineyard until it dries out. As well as planting new vineyards, we also plant replacement vines where one might have died due to winter injury or disease. This spring at Lamoreaux Landing, we planted new Cabernet Franc and Gewürztraminer vineyards, both tried and true varieties for us. Both produce exceptional fruit year after year in our vineyards—which we then turn into exceptional wines.

We invite everyone to stop by the winery, check out our newly expanded tasting room, take a stroll through the vineyards and taste some of our newest and most exciting wines.

Spring in the wine cellar is always a very busy time. After a long cold winter, the wines and the winemaker are ready to get going again.

In the fall, after harvest is over and after all the fermentations are complete, each wine is tested and tasted. Any cellar treatment needed is given. Most wines are not filtered yet. An exception could be a wine with residual sugar, for example, a Semi-Dry Riesling. This wine was chilled to stop the fermentation. The yeast becomes inactive at low temperatures, but if the wine warms up, then the yeast could start fermenting again. If we can’t stop the fermentation by chilling, then the wine has to be filtered. Our preference is to filter as little as possible. This year, we filtered our Rieslings in April, in preparation for bottling.

The exciting news from the cellar is the lineup of Rieslings we have from the 2004 vintage. Look for crisp fresh aromas and flavors of peaches and tangerines and long citrusy finishes. New this year is the 2004 Riesling Reserve, classically dry with a rich mouthfeel and mineral tones. This Riesling, from free run From the Cellar juice from the ripest grapes, was cool fermented in stainless steel. A long, slow fermentation combined with extended lees aging has added mouthfeel and complexity to this very special limited edition wine.

With the 2004 Dry Riesling and 2004 Semi-Dry Riesling, there is a Riesling for everyone’s taste. Look for these Rieslings this spring and summer. Other new wines include the 2004 Gewürztraminer, in very limited supply to be released this summer, and the 2002 oak aged Cabernet Franc–another great example of this Bordeaux variety with full body, rich flavors and nicely balanced tannins. Also available in the tasting room is a special Riesling from 2001. With the benefit of bottle aging, this Riesling shows mature aromas, a smooth and rich mouthfeel with a hint of sweetness and nuances of fresh peach in the finish.

Two New Books Highlight Finger Lakes and Pinot Noir

Greetings from the Finger Lakes A Food and Wine Lover’s Companion, a new paperback book by well known local restaurateur Michael Turback, has just been published. In this new book, Turback profiles the best wineries, restaurants, farms, food producers and markets surrounding the five Finger Lakes of Upstate New York; Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca, Cayuga and Skaneateles. The book demonstrates Turback’s extensive knowledge of the area and the businesses he profiles, with lots of history as well as food and wine tasting notes. Of Lamoreaux Landing, he says: “Superlatives are part of any discussion of Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars and the impressive lineup of wines. And not without good reason.”

Another new book about wine, North American Pinot Noir, by wine columnist John Winthrop Haeger, makes scant mention of the Finger Lakes. The book tells the story of Pinot Noir production in North America. Considered perhaps the ultimate food wine, Pinot Noir has an allure based on its special combination of aromas, flavors and mouthfeel; on its legendary capacity to reflect the terroir where it is grown; and on its reputation for being hard to grow and make. Of over 70 North American Pinot Noir producers profiled, Lamoreaux Landing is one of two from the Finger Lakes. Haeger’s write-up includes detailed tasting notes of Lamoreaux Pinot Noirs from 1997 through 2000.

Food and Wine Pairing: Grilled Duck Legs with Lamoreaux Landing 2004 Dry Riesling
by Grady Wells

This bracing wine has the bright acidity to stand up to rich grilled duck, and it has the region's signature citrus and apricot notes to complement the marinade of Riesling, lemon, chicken broth and thyme. Take care not to char the duck skin, as that flavor fights the wine's fruit.

Grady Wells is a radio producer and recipe developer who lives in Ithaca, New York. His book, Wine Tour of the Finger Lakes, was published in 2004 by McBooks Press.

Grilled Duck Legs with Lamoreaux Landing 2004 Dry Riesling

Ingredients

4 duck legs
1 1/3 c. Lamoreaux Landing 2004 Dry Riesling
2/3 c. chicken broth
zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tsp. dried thyme

Serves 4 Directions

Marinate duck in remaining ingredients for 2 hours refrigerated or 1 hour at room temperature, turning legs several times. Start a charcoal fire with coals banked on one side of grill. Bring duck to room temperature if necessary. Oil grate and place duck on grill’s hottest area with skin side down.

Spoon over a bit of marinade and cook covered for 4-5 minutes without charring skin. Spoon on more marinade, turn legs over, spoon on more marinade, and grill for 4-5 minutes on the other side. Move duck to cooler side of grill and cook 10-15 minutes longer until duck reaches 155 degrees.

Serve with freshly cooked white beans sauced with lemon and olive oil, and with Lamoreaux Landing 2004 Dry Riesling.